History
The churches in Spoleto are mostly of the later medieval period, namely Romanesque or Gothic. The Basilica of San Salvatore and some crypts date back, however, to the early Christian era. Their structures and external elements are often decorated with sculpture and painting of high artistic quality. The churches maintain, however, the linearity and austerity which characterise them as holy places of individual worship. Unfortunately, many of the original internal decorations and layouts have not stood the test of time against the attempts, especially in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, to alter and muddle them. The result is often a profoundly modified atmosphere pompously and perhaps even artistically redecorated but which no longer transmits the simple a meaningful, essential part of urban living.
The Path
Our trip through the churches of Spoleto will start from Santa Maria Assunta (Our Lady of the Assumption - Cathedral). This is an essentially Romanesque structure with a central nave and two aisles and transept. It was built in the second half of the twelfth century after the city had been devastated by Fredrick Barbarossa. An earlier tenth-century cathedral had stood on the same site dedicated to Saint Primiano. The current portico in front and the bell tower are respectively fifteenth and sixteenth century.
The lowest section holds a refined portal with sculptured architrave and jamb stones. There are two pulpits to the sides of the portico, The two sections above are subdivided into three vertical sections with rose windows and ogival arches.
The central arch of the top horizontal section holds a large mosaic by Solsterno with a benedictory Christ. The part of the bell tower contemporary to the cathedral is made of Roman and early mediaeval fragments found elsewhere.
The inside of the Cathedral was profoundly redecorated in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries (see the four altars in the left aisle by Valadier). It still preserves, however, its original layout, the "Cosmatesque" flooring in the nave (also still visible in the portico outside) and the apse.
The apse was marvellously frescoed between 1467 and 1469 with scenes of the life of Virgin Mary by Filippo Lippi (who lies buried on the right side of the transept) together with his helpers fra' Diamante and Pier Matteo d'Amelia.
Other noteworthy features: a precious altar cross on parchment applied to wooden board, painted by Alberto Sotio in 1185
The frescoes by Pinturicchio (Bernardino di Betto), in the Chapel of Bishop Eroli and other sixteenth century personages in the chapel next to it

In the Cathedral square, next to Teatro Caio Melisso, there is an octagonal building of Bramantesque inspiration, Santa Maria della Manna d'Oro. It was built between the sixteenth and seventeenth century and dedicated to the Virgin who supposedly protected the fruitful commercial transactions between the people of Spoleto and the army of Charles V after the sack of Rome in 1527. In the centre on the inside it preserves the fifteenth century baptismal font previously standing in the Eroli Chapel of the nearby Duomo. It also holds important exhibitions during the Festival of the Two Worlds. Very close to the Cathedral, you will find Sant'Eufemia. The church opens out into the courtyard of the Bishopric in via A. Saffi. It dates back to the twelfth century and is one of the most interesting examples of the local interpretation of the Romanesque style in Spoleto. In the matroneum there are obvious indications of influence from the regions of Lombardy and Veneto. The facade is divided up by horizontal moulding into two sloping parts with a central raising emphasised by hanging arches along the entire upper part of the building. On the base there is a two light mullioned window. Two simple one light windows and a graceful portal with concentric layers complete the facade.
On the inside, the vertical thrust is obvious. The church has an apse and is made of a nave and two rather narrow side aisles divided by pillars and columns previously used elsewhere. A nartex joins the two side matronea. Noteworthy pictorial works decorate it and a lovely marble antependium made in 1200 can be admired on the main altar
At the intersection of via Brignone, Arco di Druso and Monterone there is a noteworthy architectural complex, the church of Sant'Ansano, made up of buildings dating back to various eras and practically superimposed on one another. A first century AD Roman temple can still be seen in via Arco di Druso. It was originally made of a cell and a pronaos, as can be gleaned from the stylobate and the top of a column still remaining.
The Crypt of Saint Isaac dates back to the eleventh or twelfth century. It has a small nave and two aisles with columns previous used elsewhere and a cross vault. Its walls and apse have splayed slits and significant fragments of thirteenth century frescoes. The church as it stands today with a sixteenth century two tiered cloister next to it was completely rebuilt at the end of eighteenth century. Its single nave holds frescoes including one particularly noteworthy by Spagna.

San Filippo Neri is a church designed by Loreto Scelli from Spoleto on contemporary Roman models and built in piazza Mentana in Baroque style in the seventeenth century. The facade in travertine, its tympanum and the openings divided by pilaster strips together with the dome are truly impressive. On the inside the church presents a nave and two aisles divided by pillars and a transept. It contains fine works of art and wooden furnishings. The former convent of the Filippini nearby today houses the Tribunal courts.
Basilica of San Salvatore. This Basilica on the same side and not far from the site of San Ponziano, the Patron Saint of Spoleto, at the end of the via del Cimitero. It dates back to the fourth or fifth century. Despite the tampering and modification carried out down through the centuries, the basilica is still one of the rarest and most important examples of early Christian architecture. The facade is now undergoing restoration. It has three rather elegant portals and displays some fantasy in its decorative elements. Above these there are three large windows with small pillars to their sides placed against the wall. The central pillar is surmounted by a small round arch, whereas the other two are surmounted by a tympanum. On the inside the nave and two aisles are divided by Doric columns previously used elsewhere. These once probably supported trabeation which was substituted with blind arches after a fire in the eighth century. It is, however, still visible in the presbytery where there are certain Corinthian columns, which had also been used elsewhere, now supporting the dome The nave has large windows and ends in a circular apse with two square apses next to it.
We also recommend to visit the following churches:
S. Maria della Manna d'Oro, Ex Chiesa SS. Giovanni e Paolo, San Domenico, Ex Chiesa di S. Nicolò, S. Gregorio Maggiore, Chiesa di S. Ponziano, Chiesa di S. Pietro, Chiesa di S. Paolo